So, you have decided that you want to make a velvet coat or add a velvet border to your sari. But you're stuck, how do you choose which fabric is best suited for your purpose??!
You can keep a few things in mind, before picking that fabric and spending thousands of rupees on the tailoring charges.
1. Woven or Knitted: This is an important consideration if you want to get stitching work or embroidery work done.
Woven fabric is good for mostly all kinds of work. Even embroidery or zardosi work can be easily done.
Knitted fabric may need to have an additional lining which can be ironed on the backside to make it stiffer and easier to stitch. Knitted fabrics are good for blouses as the have stretch and can take the shape of the wearer's body.
Identity test:
Woven: If the fabric doesn't stretch, then its mostly woven fabric. If you look on the backside, then you will find lines running at parallel to each other. If its in the length, its the warp, if its in the width, its the weft threads. The more lines you see in a 1 cm the higher the grade of fabric. The fabric will also have a border or a selvedge on the edges. Woven fabrics are generally more expensive as they take more time to produce.
Knitted: If its knitted then it may stretch. On the backside, you will find loops, just like a sweater or a sock does. The more loops you see in a 1 cm the higher the grade of fabric. This will generally not have a selvedge/border on both its sides. It will be cheaper.
Nowadays, there is also a third kind of "flocked" velvet fabric. I do not recommend this kind of fabric as there have been many instance of the pile or hair coming out after contact with sweat or water. It is an imitation or "pure" velvet fabrics which are woven.
2. Polyester or Rayon or Cotton: Different materials are suited for different uses.
Polyester: This material usually has fixed colors which do not bleed due to sweat or washing. Water won't have a damaging effect on it and it can be washed easily.you can use it for a jacket or a sari. you should know that polyester's moisture holding capacity is quite less and may become uncomfortable during the day or when the A/C is turned off.
Rayon: The colors may bleed sometime due to sweat or washing. You should ask your supplier and you must dry clean it. It requires a fair bit amount of maintenance. If someone spills a drink or you get stuck in the rain, then it will get ruined. The pile or hair will get a wet shabby look. You may need to send it to a professional dry cleaner who uses a brush on top and a steamer underneath to raise the pile to its former glory. the plus point is that you can get it dyed if you're buying the dyeable kind (but take care of its fastness!!). It is breathable and has properties similar to Cotton. Make sure the supplier has not used an Urea Formaldehyde to give it a raised finish as it is a harmful chemical for your body.
Cotton: This is the king of materials in velvet and the most expensive velvets are made out of cotton. The colors may bleed sometime due to sweat or washing. You should ask your supplier and you must dry clean it. It is very high maintenance and the wearer must be careful. While wearing any stray water or even a fine mist can change the look for the worse. It is most breathable and comfortable in Indian weather. You will need a fabric steamer to iron out creases. Harsh creases may require a brush to give an even direction to the pile.
Never use an iron on the face of the fabric or the garment will be damaged beyond repair.
If you do not have a fabric steamer, you may use the method below with a normal iron:
Use a clean carpet and put the fabric face down. Lay a wet sheer cotton cloth on the back and lightly iron to remove creases. Try it on the sides first before moving onto the entire fabric.
Identity test: ask the supplier as it is difficult to ascertain without burning.
3. Thickness (or pile height)/ Weight
If you want to use the fabric for making a garment for the evenings, a thicker fabric is OK.
But Indian weather is generally hot and humid. The thinner the fabric is better.
For Coats, you may want to choose a thicker or heavier fabric to maintain the shape. But keep in mind your tailor will also be attaching a lining to it
For dresses, the lighter the better. As the zardosi or embroidery work can be done easily and you do not want to add the additional weight of the fabric. As you may be adding zari work later.
4. How much to buy
You should ask your tailor as per his requirement. Your body shape or fabric design may require a particular amount only. He should keep in mind that velvet can be only cut in the same direction and there may be an extra wastage of fabric. Not every tailor has the skill to sew velvet.
On the basis of the width, you will need to adjust the quantity you need to buy
5. Width (12 inch = 1 foot)
Woven fabrics are of different sizes: 40"/44"/48"/54"/60"
Knitted fabrics are usually of 54" or 60"
Price should be proportionate.
6. Price (at my shop)
Woven velvet fabrics: I have fabrics starting from Rs. 100 to Rs. 2000
Knitted velour fabrics: The range is from Rs. 70 to Rs. 200
Prices depend on quantity and quality.
In my opinion, if you want to buy wholesale quantities, you must visit the street my shop is located in. There are almost 10 manufacturers/suppliers of velvet to choose from. I think its the largest concentration of velvet fabric shops in Mumbai!!
7. Other factors to keep in mind
Age: if the fabric is old, it tends to weaken and tear easily. Check as if you were tearing a sheet of paper.
Color: if the color is suited to you and the current fashion trends
These are the main points you should keep in mind. Please let me know if this post was useful to you or if I've made a mistake at some place.
Cheers,
Sanket
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