Matching Colors of your fabric samples with velvet

If you have a sample of a fabric be it velvet or any other and you want to get a similar shade of velvet, you need to keep a few things in mind.

1. Since velvet is a pile fabric, the shade directly on top will look different than viewed from an angle
2. After folding the fabric or if you attach it in a curved way, the fabric will look different. the color would look lighter or darker
3. So,  you need to check how you are going to cut and use the fabric and then match with the cutting at the same angle
4. You can also try to match the back side of the fabric, if your sample is the same quality. This is a backup method and does not work all the time.
5. Velvets with different finishes like crush/standing/flat finish give off different shade. Standing finish looks darker compared to sleeping flat finish which may look like satin.
6. If you buy dyeable velvet or you intend to dye or wash it later, the pile would become disturbed and the colors would vary due to this, even if the dyeing process is good.
7. You should check the pile direction of both samples before checking color (one way it should become raised and one way would fall down - similar to a dog's or cat's fur).
8. You should also see that both the fabrics are compared in weft way (width of the fabric) or warp way (length of the fabric). Generally knitted fabrics stretch in the weft.

The Problem of Color Fastness or Bleeding

We have received some feedback from garmenters about the problem of Color Fastness or Bleeding in velvet.

What happens is that the color of velvet (or any other fabric) bleeds and transfer onto other garments or other parts of the same garment. This usually happens after making the piece or washing or packing it. If one is not careful about it, the entire lot or your specially stitched suit can be ruined.

Since, testing every piece of fabric is tedious and impossible, we can have a look at few of the reasons and ways to home test them quickly.

Why do colors bleed - 
1. Processing: The main reason that fabrics bleeds is due to improper processing by the dyeing/printing factory. The adequate temperature is not applied and washing is insufficient. So residual color is present on top of the fabric and does not penetrate into the yarn. (generally this happens with cotton/viscose/nylon based fabrics which are dyed at boiling water temperature in small dyeing shops or in open bath/pot at home)

2. Improper garment care: We need to carefully study the fabric care instructions that are mentioned on labels while buying the garments. Hot or Cold Water, Dry Clean Only, Drip Dry only, have a lot of implications, especially for pile fabrics like velvet.

When do colors bleed - 
1. Touching: if the process has really gone awry, it will come off onto you hand like ink
2. Stitching: while stitching some color may transfer onto lighter colored surfaces (please note, this may also be misinterpreted as color bleed but it maybe just the pile coming off. you can roll your hand over it in a circular way to gather and remove it.
3. Stain removing: when you use white petrol or any other substance like water to remove stains, liquid acts as a medium and dissolved or carries the color away. quality of such stain removing materials needs to be checked as they may also be the cause.
4. Ironing: when ironing the garment or fabric, if the steam is in excess and takes time to evaporate, it may collect in one place or drain, thereby causing the color to bleed. high temperatures of the iron may also cause chemical reactions with the dye.
As a rule, one must be careful to hang garments or the fabric to dry, till the steam evaporates completely. As after folding, any collection of steam in spots or evaporation in a particular area will cause color bleeding. the water has no where to go in a packed bag and the fabric would just sit in the water for extended periods.
5. Washing: one should ideally only dry clean velvet fabric/garments. hot temperatures of water or sunlight and chemicals in detergents/softeners may react with the dyes and lead to the problem.
6. Sweat/Rain/Liquids: after a garment is made, chemicals present in sweat, rain and other liquids that may come in contact could cause the problem.

How to test:
1. Taking a light colored plain cotton cloth you can wet it with tap water and try rubbing on the edges of the fabric or garment vigorously. If you have hot water available it's best.
2. Dipping the fabric swatch completely in water (only for synthetic) you can check if the color of the water changes. you can also try warming the water a bit for best results. 

What to do if the problems arise:
1. Use special stain removing chemicals, of which some are like acid to remove the dye. There are different chemicals and dyes for natural and synthetic materials, so please keep in mind. You should ideally try any chemical on the hidden side of the fabric so that you can be safe. 
2. Apply the chemical with cotton white fabric and in only one same direction, off the side of the garment or fabric. And in the same pile direction.

How to make fabric color fast (I'm not sure about this, but it has been suggested by a manufacturer to me. Please try at your own risk)
- you need to dip the fabric in hot salt water for a few minutes and dry. It's only for polyester/synthetic fabric.